In other kitchens, this could translate to well executed yet predictable food.
In Decca's case, it sets the stage for a dining experience that is as illuminating as it is delicious.
From the just-burnt-enough brussel sprout leaves found amongst the mussels, to the briny bottarga shavings over housemade cavatelli, to the raw cucumber accompanying the crispy Texas redfish, unexpected supporting characters bring about the best in whatever is taking center stage on the plate. It is a dining experience that doesn't allow any note of flavor to be left to chance nor taken for granted.
It is a dining experience worthy of four stars.
I lived downtown during Decca's lengthy construction and I have dined at Decca several times since the doors opened in 2012. I have always been pleased with my meal and service, though it never quite impressed me like it has as of late.
Every aspect of the Decca experience has firmly come into its own and appears to only be improving with age. Guests will pay top dollar for this experience and I find it to be worth the investment.
A more accessible encounter with Decca may be had in their cellar bar. The intimate, basement level space is walled in massive exposed stones and equally imposing wooden beams run down the center of the room.
Bar bites in the $5 range can be had in the cellar, and they are best enjoyed with one of Decca's cocktails, like the Old Pal ($10), a classic blend of rye, dry vermouth and Amaro that boasted an essence of peach thanks to the unexpected but happy addition of peach liqueur. A favorite signature creation is the Chupacabra ($12), a nuanced, mezcal-based drink married with ginger, cilantro, and chili and double strained, imparting a slightly spicy, herbaceous undertone.
Seated in Decca's first-floor dining space during a recent dinner, we found that the Chupacabra paired particularly well with the avocado toast starter ($14), featuring thin, perfectly ripe slices of avocado fanned atop a toasted slice of seeded bread. Equally thin, raw shavings of asparagus rested atop the avocado, pickled serranos and a bright green goddess dressing completing the dish. It is an excellent example of chef Annie Pettry's keen and creative sense of composition when it comes to both flavor and plating.
The pan roasted mussels ($16) illustrate this point as well. The mussels are cooked in a delicate curry broth and tossed with burnt brussel sprout leaves and peas. A dollop of creme fraiche and a thick slice of charred bread are the ideal counterpoints.
Pasta is my Achilles' heel and I am quite particular about its execution. Chef Pettry's three homemade offerings are among some of the best pasta dishes I've experienced in recent memory. Her linguine verde ($17) is a spot-on version of pasta with clams. The fresh cream sauce coated each al dente noodle just so, with bits of green garlic an ideal partner for the sweet and tender littleneck clams, which imparted that touch of brininess I so love in this classic dish.
Given the meatiness of the morel mushrooms, one would never know that the ricotta cavatelli ($18) was a vegetarian wonderland. Shavings of celery, caraway seed, and a final flurry of bottarga were ingenious ingredients that allowed this compilation to make perfect sense.
Five main courses and four shareable side dishes round out Decca's dinner menu and the crispy Texas redfish ($29) is not to be missed. Served in a large shallow bowl, a perfectly clear leek brodo is poured table side, soaked up by couscous resting beneath the expertly seared redfish. The inclusion of peanut, cucumber and hints of citrus made every bite that much more interesting. The only element this dish lacked was a touch of spice.
The mustard jus accompanying the wood-grilled pork chop ($30) ensured this offering was not for want of spice. Pearls of mustard seed mixed and mingled with the ample chop; the pickled peaches were a sweetly-sour ideal counterpoint.
Our decadent finish at Decca involved a just-rich-enough rectangle of coffee-scented devil's food cake ($9), crowned with a dainty chocolate meringue, a textural garnish that the dish would not have been the same without. But then again, nothing at Decca happens by accident.
